Thanks for trying to contact me. Scroll to the bottom of this page to fill out a contact form.

On my old website where I posted my email address, I often received many emails per day asking for advice or for my opinion on what other people should buy. I don’t actually think it’s a good idea to ask one persons opinion, because guitar tone is so subjective. I believe it’s much better to ask subjective questions on forums for many people to answer.

Also I am getting to the point where I cannot answer all the emails I receive, so I have decided that I will remove my email address from the site, and for any contact, users can fill out a comment form at the bottom of this page.

Here are some general links where you can ask questions about the amps and gear I talk about on this site.

For the Line6 forum:
The official Atomic Forum:
For the sewatt forum (Blackheart amps forum):


101 thoughts on “Contact

    • I don’t know the bias specs for the 18watter.

      Please see the link on this page for the unofficial atomic forum, and ask there. alternatively contact atomic amps at and they will tell you the specs you need to know for biasing.

  1. Just wanted to extend much thanks Rowbi for your very informative response concerning some inquiries posted in the thread, “TonePort DI-Bundled w/GuitarPortOnline” subscription – That pretty much cleared things up for me….and was greatly appreciated !

    • Hi

      Yes I am selling the atomic. I will probably put it up for sale tonight if I get a chance.

      if anyone is interested in buying it before it goes on ebay, at a good price, please contact me via private message on the line6 community/forum and we can exchange details there.


    • all I have (shcems and PCB layouts) for the BH5H is on the blackheart page of this site. click the blackheart link on the navi bar right at the top.

  2. Hey Rowbi,

    Did you make a MIDI to FBV converter? That would sure be helpful for controlling non-MIDI L6 devices. I saw your forum poll on, but don’t know if you tried to make one.


    • hi

      i wish I had. but I didn’t know enough to be able to do it. it is probably possible to do, but I think you’d have to basically know MIDI inside out to do it, and also you’d need to know communications protocols used for MIDI and RS232 to have any chance.

  3. Hey Rowbi.
    Thanks for the help this afternoon with my Tone Port UX 2 problem. Your reply on the Line6 site was bang on my friend.
    Take it easy.


  4. Hi Rowbi, I have a Handsome Devil, but I want more gain, I just watched the clip with the high gain mod, it got me wondering if the 10k resistor would work with a BitMo modded Handsome Devil? If it does, is R2 still the right place to put it? I had a Champion 600 that I modded and I removed the negative resistance resistor and it also seemed to increase the gain, would it work in a Handsome Devil? If it would, were is it located. I may wind up switching to a Little Giant, so I may just wind up working on that. Anyway, great site and info and any help would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.

  5. Rowbi,

    Love your site. Many thanks. I’m a thinking about buying a mint Epi Les Paul Custom 3+ Trans Black same as yours. I CANNOT for the life of me find a retail price on the thing because Ep only made 500 of them!!! Any advice of the price range I should expect to pay??? If you don’t mind, how much did you pick yours up for (no worries if it’s too personal).

    Thanks Mate!


    • hi

      i’ve no idea what they would sell for. that depends on what anyone is willing to pay for a limited edition.

      i got mine REALLY cheap in a xmas clearout because someone had paid a deposit and then left it in the store for a year. so it was a special order and never been out of the box. it was £200 i think, perhaps 2 years ago at Xmas. that said around the same time, in a rather expensive music store in Cambridge, they had one, and that was on sale for £600. so I guess the true cost of a new one in a reasonable store would have been approx £450-£500.

      That said, it was 2 years ago, and they were rare then, because they were part of the 2005 limited edition collection.

      Hope this helps you.


  6. Hi,
    I’m searching for a solution to convert the FBV from Line6 to MIDI.
    The only interesting Link from Google was an old threat on the Line6 side, where you and some other guys talked about finding a solution.

    I want to ask: Do you know something about the FBV protocol ?

    I’m very interested in the protocol, to build a converter, because I have a Pod X3 (without Midi) and old PreAmps which need Midi…. so i have a problem.

    I’m looking forward to an answer.

    Sorry for my bad english.

    • I did do some research, but it turned out that it would be too expensive to get a MIDI design company to produce this… and Line 6 do not seem interested at teh moment.

      There was a person on the forums who did come up with their own circuit, as I guess they had experience of RS232 or some other serial comms protocol work. I don’t, so I can’t help you with the FBV protocols. you could search on the line6 forums as I think he was on there.

      aside from that, you could buy a POD2 and use that to convert between FBV and MIDI, by using Spaceatl’s way os using one FBV pedal to conrtol multiple amps. so use the pedal to control your amp + the POD2, then the POD2’s midi control can control some other midi device if you like.

  7. Hi

    I have a little “marshall tone” mod for the Blackheart BH5H. I did these modifications to mine, and it became a “growling” mini-plexi. wow! So… according to your “stock BH5H schematic” here is the mod:

    C1: 10uF
    C3: mallory 150 22nF
    C4: mallory 150 22nF
    R5: 47k
    R8: 220k
    R9: 1M
    C7: 47uF
    R11: 150

    … I measured B+ at 405VDC in my amp. I think it’s way too much for an EL84. It will die really quickly… so I installed a 100ohm 25W resistor between “OT.B+” and C12 (reducing the B+ voltage on the ot. to about 300VDC)

    Also one more trick: I have a 16 ohm cabinet, and i like the sound of it when I plug it into the 4 ohms output. This doesnt damage the amp (not like if I plugged a 4 ohm cabinet into the 16 ohm output… that WOULD damage the amp)… So the sound is a bit smoother and more rounded with creamy highs. I love it! I run my BH5H into a 212 with greenbacks.

  8. Hi, I’ve just upgraded to Pod Farm 2, and I am using a Line6 UX1.

    I’ve found the plug ins in program files, but I cannot open them.

    I would appreciate some advice.

    • My advice is, if you have problems with a Line 6 product, go to the Line 6 forum, and ask a question. I’m a member there and may see your post, but that way others get the benefit of the answers you get, and also many people can answer you, meaning you’ll get things sorted faster… If the users can’t help, then as it’s Line 6’s support forum, the Line 6 tech’s can also help you out.

  9. hello, I want to bye Podfarm. My question is if it works
    with my PODXT Live pedal. I have finded no answer in the normal
    supportsite. Hopely you can help me. Best regards, Franky P.S.:
    sorry for my English but I speak duth en adressed in

    • Well it will work, but there are different versions and some aren’t compatible. You should post a question (stating what you want to achieve) on the line 6 support community and you will get the full info about whether you can do what you want.

  10. Hi Andy. Just a brief thank you for your 4 tutorials on the fx infusion for the Line 6 Spider Valve Mkii. This is a great starting point for me having just acquired the 100w HD and 4 x 12, and have yet to dive into this thing to try and create some sounds before touring.
    I’ve already edited all the manuals in an attempt to simplify everything, but it’s still daunting. I have found the amp incredibly loud, not necessarily a good thing, would you recommend taking all the channel volumes down a few notches or am I likely to lose some response.
    I did get rid of a Fender Cybertwin in an attempt to have a slightly less synthetic sound, but I’m not succeeding just yet.
    Main guitar – Godin LGXSA fitted with Kent Armstrong pick/ups.

    Thanks for your help


    • Hey man, thanks for contacting me.

      Welcome to the Spider Valve family. The best place to look for info or to ask questions like this (if you’ve already checked the manuals) is the forum:

      but to get to your points for now. master volume is overall loudness. channel volumes are the master volumes for the amp models, so they may affect tone a little. on the master volume, you’ll get used to it being sensitive…. but just a thought… is a stack really for you if you think it’s too loud?? it’s more about the speakers than the watts, as more speakers move more air.



  11. Hi Andy. Yep, hindsight is a wonderous thing, and I wish I’d got the 2 x 12, but hey ho, I shall persevere. All the best, Mark

  12. Hi!

    I also have Pod HD300. I saw your video ‘POD HD300 Review’. The tone about 1:30 is very cool. Could you send me a patch ?

    Take care, Mike

    • Hey, thanks for your message,

      click the Line 6 tone link at the top of my blog and they are there for download under the POD HD300 section.

      Have fun.

  13. I heard that you might have a point to point layout for the Blackheart BH5H Little Giant Amplifier…..Is this true?

    • everything I have is on the Blackheart page on my blog. I don’t have a PTP layout, I have the PCB layouts and schematics.

  14. Hey Rowbi, great site full of info on the BH5H. Do you happen to know a part number for the indicator lamp? Mine burned out and I can’t find a flashlight bulb that works. Thanks!

    • Hi Mark,

      No I don’t know the part number, but what I am certain of from looking at the schematic is that the light runs from the 6.3V AC tap which I think is then rectified to DC, and that then feeds the power and preamp tube heaters.

      So I would say you need a 6v bulb. I also know the light fitting on the Blackheart amps is a style of amplifier bulb fitting called a ‘jewel’. Fender use these a lot, as do other amp manufacturers. I also know Watford Valves (google them) stock replacement bulbs for Fender jewels, so its worth getting into contact with Derek from Watford Valves to ask him if that will fit your amp. you could take a measurement of the bulb you have, and check the ones he stocks are teh same physical size as well as it being 6V.



  15. Re treble bleeds: one of the most effective for me is this………

    The advantages of it are it’s simplicity; there is only one component.

    It works on part volume settings ( 0-9) and if you back off the tone control to

    8.5 this cancels it.

    I believe it was originally credited to Frank Falbo @ Seymour Duncan



  16. Rowbi Hey I have a brand new fvb express MK2 and have never used it its going to a duoverb head, how do I loose the reverb that comes thru mostly on the D channel and how do I equal out the volume between The A B C D channels ?Thanks C. HILL studio city CA.

    • check out on the Line 6 website for the manual for your amp. the reverb and volume levels in the amps presets are where the issue is, so you need to edit those presets. the pedal is just a dump pedal and is controlling the amp, there’s nothing to edit in the pedal.

  17. Hi,

    if I want to put a POD HD direct into a stereo power amp, would a HD 500 be okay or would I need the line level output of the Pro?



    • you have missed the point. The Pro has LIne level ‘Inputs’ which the other POD HD’s don’t have… BUT all POD HD’s have the ability to have line level outputs to seed to a stereo power amp.

      So you could use a POD HD500 with no problems into a stereo power amp. there;s a switch on it to set it to line level outputs.

      For any other POD questions. Pop over to the Line 6 user community, as myself and a load of other helpful chaps can answer your questions.



  18. Hi there…

    I saw some pix of a Line6 Spider Valve combo that was converted into a head on your page through google. 🙂
    I plan the same with mine but of course some advice or experience would be greatly appreciated…
    Could you tell me where I can find out mor about these spider-combo-to-head conversions?


    • HI,

      Sorry I don’t specifically know much more. Check out the Line 6 User community as I think there’s a couple of posts from someone who did it over there.


  19. I’ve been watching your videos and comments regarding Line 6 products for years (and thank you – btw)

    I’m looking for a link to Line 6 replacement parts. Quite specifically I’m asking you if you have worked with a parts supplier that had Line 6 amp schematics that can send me the specific part I’m looking for.

    I’ve got a Spider Jam amp with some bad front pots (the pots that control the two effect knobs specifically) I’ve already pulled the circuit boards apart and have measured the pots in question and have determined that they have issues. The problem is I have no idea what they are — LOL. There are no printed specs on them at all.

    So if you have a reference that you have used, I’d be much obliged.


    Tom Zachary from Los Angeles California….

    • Hi Tom,

      Sorry I don’t know any specific L6 parts suppliers that will also supply schematics.

      The info I usually give out (which is all I know) is to contact various L6 authorised service centers and see if one of them will sell you parts and perhaps a schematic. BUT what I do know is that L6 try to make as many repairs as cost effective as possible.. So it may be worth calling Line 6 HQ seen as you’re so close to them in California, and they may be able to do you a good deal on the repair… yes it may cost a little more than just the parts cost, if you’re qualified to work on such things… but in the long run they can test everything out and ensure you don’t buy parts and end up wasting your money.

      I know it’s a pain sometimes, but I have often found that cutting corners sometimes ends up costing more, and causing more issues… just my personal opinion though 🙂

      let me know if you do find a parts/schem supplier in the US, would be handy to know


      • Rowbi

        Thanks so much for the reply. I’ve sent emails to all of the service centers in my area and hope to get some information. In the mean time I found a guy in Burbank CA that sells a bunch of parts for Line 6 amps. He has the exact pots that I’m looking for. I’ll pick them up tomorrow, pull the old ones out and solder in the new ones. The Spider Jam amp I’m repairing is used and and not really worth that much, so I don’t have that much to loose if I mess up.


  20. I have a BH5 and I am working on some modifications for this amp. In getting ready, I noticed that the BH5 uses DC heater supply. This is cool; however, when I measured this voltage it seems to be running the heaters at about 7.4Vdc. According to all the specifications that I have found, this is too high. Does anyone have any experience with this? Is this acceptable? I would assume that because of the RMS affect, the actual percentage of DC voltage variation can be greater than that of AC voltage variation. Comments??

    • well there’s a couple of things you could do.

      to start with, check that the voltage coming from the power transformer is 6.3VAC, as it’s a 6.3VAC supply that’s rectified to DC I think. so the DC I’m not 100% sure what the voltage will show, but it should be I would think around 6.3VDC after rectification.

      The 5VDC tap is for a tube rectifer, and isn’t used for the other tubes heater supply.

      Remember that there’s a chance with the load of the tubes on the heater supply, it may pull the voltage down, so if you’re measuring the voltage with no tubes in the amp, then this may be the cause of the higher voltage reading.

      As always though, if in doubt get a qualified amp tech to look at it, or have Crate (who own Blackheart) service the amp for you.



      • I will check the open circuit AC voltage to make sure that it is 6.3Vac. This may be a meter problem; however, I believe that if the dc heater voltage has very little ripple then the voltage level should be ~(6.3/.707)-1.4. This is obviously a simplified version of the calculations but it will get you very close. If this is correct, then this circuit was designed to produce ~7.5Vdc to the heaters of the tubes. If this is true, then the BH5 will consume tubes faster than if it had true 6.3V heater supply. What do you think?

      • I think it should certainly be checked with tubes in, and if the voltage is still too high, fit a resistor to pull down the voltage a little. Just make sure you work out how many watts the resistor needs to be so you get a high enough watt rating. Of course this could be due to over voltage on the mains side so that’s something to think about.

        disclaimer: you work on your amp at your own risk. If in doubt, get a qualified amp tech to service your amp.



      • I used a series diode between the bridge rectifier and the filter cap. Had to cut the trace to do so but that is easily returned if needed. The diode gives a constant voltage drop. It works great. I would recommend this to anyone who wants to keep there tubes running longer. This voltage is just outside the upper specification for both the 12ax and the 6bq5.

      • yep that would work too. usually you get 0.7v forward voltage drop from a silicon diode, so if it’s 0.7V you need to drop, and the diode voltage and current specs will fit the purpose then great. but from your previous message, you had 7.5VAC and obviously you need around 6.0-6.3VDC. If the drop with the diode gives you 6.0-6.3VDC then great, if not then a resistor would be better as you can or course get a resistor with just the right resistance to give you a more accurate voltage drop.

        It sounds like you know what you’re doing though, but for the benefit of anyone else who wants some more info, here’s some things I just thought about:

        The total current draw on that 6.3V heater circuit is just over 1amp, or to be accurate 1.06amps (I’ve looked at the tube specs on JJ Tesla’s website), so you also need to drop 1.2volts. So this should be a simple V/I=R calculation. you want to drop 1.2volts (that’s your V), and the current is 1.06 (that’s your I), and it gives you an R of 1.13 (which is your resistance in ohms).

        So I would use at least a 2 watt resistor to be on the safe side (use 3w if you like), so that it stays nice and cool. to get 1.1 ohms will be a little tricky, but I know you can get 2.2ohm 2 watt power resistors from rapidonline in the UK, so you could run two of those in parallel to give you 1.1ohms capable of 4 watts.

        If once you fit them the voltage drop still isn’t quite enough, then another alternative is a 1ohm resistor in series with 0.22 or 0.33ohm resistor, just to take the voltage down a little bit.

  21. I am in the process of changing the 6bq5 to 6v6 in this amp for the sake of experimenting with the tone. This is the reason that I have been inspecting the voltage values including the heater voltage.

  22. Question: Have you done any experimenting with adding negative feedback to the BH5 circuit. This has a huge affect on the overall tone of most fender amps and I was thinking about experimenting with this.

    • Sorry no I haven’t. If you get good results, please let me know as I’d like to try it out, and maybe post something on the blog about it (I’d obviously give you credit etc).

      • ok . . . I will keep you posted. This is a slow process for me because of my regular job. It gets in the way of my fun stuff, but it keeps the bills paid. I figure that in a week or so I will have some interesting results.

      • Ok . . . I have had some more time for experimenting and tweaking. The negative feedback thing is still pending; however, I did change the output tube to a 6V6 and the sonic character of the amp is much different. “Much more the way I like it.” Also, I have been tweaking the tone stack a bit. Looking for a smoother tone than the stock parts . . . at least with a strat. I used 250p, .1umd, and .047mfd. This gave it more original fender tone. I’m digging it so far. The only mistake I made was using the same hole that the 6BQ5 was in to mount the 6V6. I would not do this again because the wiring makes removing the board to solder a big pain in the ass. Everything else is great so far. I have been testing the amp with several types of speakers . . . the green back wins again!

  23. Hi
    Great Site, Im thinking of modding my Marshall Class 5 to a tube rectifier. Do you notice much difference on the Little Giant? Someone told me it was a waste of time on a class A amp but there are guys out there selling the mod. It would be interesting to hear your take on the subject is ‘Tone wise’

    • Not sure about the Class 5, but on the BH5H (Blackheart) it certainly gave a looser feel, and I personally preferred the solid state rectifier so I ended up removing it. BUT for that vintage vibe, and for those not looking for a very tight sound, it may well be preferred. I couldhear the difference though, so perhaps it does make a difference.

  24. *Recording processed and unprocessed simultaneously*

    Hi there Rowbi, I have a POD XT Pro, a Mackie Onyx 820i mixer, and an iMac with Logic Pro.

    I thought I had read somewhere that it is possible to record both an unprocessed guitar AND the processed sound of that guitar at the same time. I can’t seem to find anything in the POD manual addressing this question.

    What I want to wind up with are two separate tracks of the same guitar performance. One track would be the processed guitar (most likely in stereo, taken from the POD), and the other track would be the unprocessed guitar of the same performance (most likely in mono).

    The idea would be that the processed track would have the “committed” sound on it, while the unprocessed track would be open to select a plug-in (from the Logic library) at a later date.

    Just like a guitarist might play through two different amps simultaneously, and send one amp (and its settings) to one track, and the other amp (and its settings) to second track. The two differently treated tracks of the same performance would be blended to taste at mixdown time.

    If this has already been discussed, could someone please direct me to an appropriate link. I’ve tried a search — no luck.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi,

      It’s been a long time since I’ve done this with an XT. But I think what is actually possible is for you to record an unprocessed signal, but hear it processed while you’re recording. That way you can react to the feel of your playing being processed, but record the unprocessed and re-amp later. All that is over USB. You may also be able to record a processed signal too with some clever cable routing and another sound card. There’s a good paragraph about it in the manual, and how you can record processed and unprocessed signals. If it doesn’t say how to do both togehter using USB, then that isn’t possible. Take a look though, and if you can’t, try doing it with cables from the PODs outputs to capture the processed. Or you could record the unprocessed, and then use the POD to re=amp that, change the settings of the POD driver, and play your unprocessed signal from your DAW and the POD will apply the processing and get your DAW to record that again, without you needing to play it again.

      The way I would record processed and unprocessed together would be to use my POD Studio UX1 or UX2. those can do both, and use the same tones as a POD XT, but may be slightly improved in sample rate… But they’re essentially the same set of base amp models and FX.

  25. Hi,

    I’ve been enjoying my Roost amp which I bought on e-bay. I’ve noticed that two of the tubes were glowing bright red, even after replacement. Biasing them back fully, they are dimmer but don’t look like they will survive long. Being semi proficient, I measured the HV at 550 V standby and 490 when running. From the schematics that you have posted I see this figure is meant only to be 454V ish. The ac out of the transformer is at 377 rms for the HT but exactly 6.3 for the filaments for a 245 V mains supply. A couple of the caps seem to have been replaced with 400 uF with plenty of voltage headroom but I can’t see that affecting anything much.

    I cannot figure out why this might be unless it was designed to be so. One solution might be to add the two extra tubes that there is space for but no sockets to drag the HT down a bit through the output transformer, if it can take it.

    Any clues anyone.

    Sounds awesome as it is though but I don’t think EL34 last long like that.

    Regards Keith

    • I assume it’s a 50 watt model from what you’ve said. perhaps someone before you swapped out the power transformer for a 100 or a 150 watt PT, and that’s why it’s giving such high readings.

      I would look for a datasheet for the tubes you have and confirm they will cope with that high voltage, but EL34’s I think should cope with the voltages you’re stating from here: if so, just use the weber bias calculator and set the bias as it states.

      If they’re still red plating and you’re concerned, it could be that you have a bad pair of tubes, and a replacement is needed.

      If you’re still concerned, the best thing is to have an experienced amp tech service the amp, as they will likely be able to sus out any issue very quickly, or offer some reassurance for the voltages,a nd the colour of the tubes.



  26. Hi… i have a spider valve 2×12 combo and i want to convert in head+cabinet. How you did it rowbi? Can you help me to do it to looks like yours? Congrats from Portugal

    • I only posted some info about someone else who had done it. I don’t know any more details, so all I can suggest is having a search on google to fine more info.

  27. HI. I have been lucky enough to buy a 1977 Roost SR50 for a great price. I need to change the tubes. I wonder if looking from the back of the amp and correct way up, you can tell me which of the preamp tubes is which i.e v1/2/3 v4(p1). The tubes in it are too high gain ones, I want clean headroom in a Hiwatt kind of way. I would also wonder if you can tell me if I could put an ecc81 (CV4024) in the P1 like in a Hiwatt.

    Thanks very much

    • Hi,

      If yours is a 4 input Roost, then it’s likely similar to one of mine. My 1970’s Roost 50 watter has 4 pre-amp tubes (the 4th one is the PI though). V1 is the one closest to the input jacks as the input signal from the jacks goes straight to the circuit board behind the input jacks and feeds through the preamp tube closest to the input jacks.

      I would think any tube that’s compatible with a 12AX7 would work, so long as it requires the same or less current, and the same voltage, and if it gives you a lower gain then that will work well. You can also get lower and higher gain 12AX7 tubes, so just changing to some lower gain units like JJ’s may also help a little too.

      All that said, the way to be sure is to ask a tech to do the work for you as they can check your amp (as Roost made changes to their amp schematics, so they’re not all the same).



  28. John :
    HI. I have been lucky enough to buy a 1977 Roost SR50 for a great price. I need to change the tubes. I wonder if looking from the back of the amp and correct way up, you can tell me which of the preamp tubes is which i.e v1/2/3 v4(p1). The tubes in it are too high gain ones, I want clean headroom in a Hiwatt kind of way. I would also wonder if you can tell me if I could put an ecc81 (CV4024) in the P1 like in a Hiwatt.
    Thanks very much

    Sorry made a mistake should read v1/v2/v3(P1)/v4 oops

  29. Hi!!! I searched forever and found your FBV mod to run 2 amps from the same FBV shortboard! Great mod but I couldn’t get it to work with 2 spider IV’s. Do you possibly have any idea if the pin out would be different?

    Any input would be greatly appreciated!!



  30. Hi Andy,
    I just ordered the POD HD Desktop ( should be here tomorrow)
    Did you ever look into the DSP problem you said you had with the Desktop? was it because of the Flow of effects? I’m just curious.


    • Hi Rob,

      There’s no DSP problem with the POD HD Bean at all.

      What I was explaining is that there is more DSP power built into the POD HD500X compared to the POD HD Bean/HD500. All this means is that you can do lots with a POD HD Bean/HD500 in terms of how many FX you can use at once but you can do a little more with the POD HD500X.
      All that said – it does depend on which FX you are interested in, as some FX models use very little DSP power (e.g. a simple EQ or volume pedal FX) compared to others that use a lot of DSP (e.g. spring reverbs).

      I hope that helps you understand the different in use characteristics of these 2 different units.

      Enjoy your HD Bean – they’re great units


  31. It’s a pity you don’t have a donate button! I’d without a
    doubt donate to this fantastic blog! I guess for
    now i’ll settle for bookmarking and adding
    your RSS feed to my Google account. I look forward to new updates and will share this blog with my
    Facebook group. Talk soon!

  32. Greeting Rowbi,
    I have an Atomic Reactor 112-50 and I’m using your PDF to bias my tubes.
    When I test the bias, I get a range from about 26 to 200 mv. I’m using an inexpensive tester in an auto-mode. When I set the bias to 80, I’m still getting significant hum. I may try 40, but the thing that throws me off is that my meter is showing mv, not ma. (as per your pdf, 800mv= 40ma).
    Thanks for your help 🙂

    • Sorry I don’t have more info to offer you in assistance. I wrote that guide a long time ago to help others to bias their atomic amps, but I included all the info I have.

      Perhaps email tom king over on atomics website – he is usually very helpful albeit busy which means he sometimes takes a while to reply.

      Please report back if you work out what’s wrong.

  33. Thanks for getting back to me. I’ll be taking my amp in for service. I’m pretty sure I have a bigger problem than just biasing the tubes. They don’t glow or even get hot. I probably have such a low range (26-200mv) because of a bad resistor or capacitor(?)).

    My Atomic is somewhat of a lemon, unfortunately. It’s been in for repairs 5 or 6 times over the years.

    In the meantime, I’m plugging the XTLive into the effects return of my DT25.

    I prefer many of the tones in my XTLive to my HD500, and still have both, even without the Atomic.

  34. Hi. Thanks for posting all your Blackheart mods. This is good learning. Im currently converting to a tube rectifier for the Blackheart Little Giant BH5
    (this kit:

    But I am new at this so this is my first convertion.
    I can’t open the links for the schematics on your page. Are they still available?



  35. HELLO Rowbi
    great video on line6 amplify with fbv mkII shortboard, have the same set up been setting up my tones on fbv working pretty good , the problem I have is the sound drops out then comes back do you know of any fixes for this or is it something with my set up. this is a great amp, hope there still working on the usb port and blue tooth drop off.

    • thanks for your comments.
      If you mean sound dropouts from Bluetooth, there’s a guide over at Line6’s community forum to help. I know with my iPad, if I have lots of apps running, it can cause occasional interruptions to what the iPad is doing, which in turn can cause audio streaming to blip occasionally (whether streaming to the Amplifi, or any other Bluetooth speaker. Check those things first.

  36. Tks will try closing some apps in the back ground. But when using the fbv mkII. Shortboard alone no ipad, the sound drops off then comes back or freezes. Have to unplug the fbv board to get it to work again, no sure what is going on. The fbv mkII. Is up to date software wise.

  37. hey Rowbi, just picked up a UX2 recently and ran across your Youtube video about using footswitches. I’m so looking forward to using this feature, having an FS-6 already that I’ve used for controlling my RC-2. Bummer is I can’t seem to get any MIDI control. I know the FS-6 works (with the RC-2). I’m using individual mono 1/4″ cables from A and B on FS-6 to footswitch 1 and 2 on the UX2. Any suggestions? (wondering if it might be a Windows 10 issue). Thanks in advance!

  38. I’m late to the party here. I have a BH1H – the killer ant – and somebody already did the BitMo mod (push pull tone/gain). Like many others have asked.. How complex would a Line-input be? I know you did it with the 5 – but, I’d LOVE that. Has anyone done it?

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